“He made it to the ocean, had a smoke in a tree
The wind rose up, set him down on his knee. A wave came crashing like a fist to the jaw. Delivered him wings, “Hey, look at me now”
Arms wide open with the sea as his floor
Oh, power, oh
He’s.. flying”
I sit alone, recalling, resting. Rejuvenated. Halfway through my second day of surfing in Arrifana, Portugal, I am nestled upon large gray rocks staring out at waves breaking on a 500M stretch of beach that rests perfectly beneath surrounding cliffs rising effortlessly into the heavens. The rocks upon which I sit give way to golden sand beckoning my presence to come frolic in the serenity of the tides that kiss gently its million years journey to this very spot. Soaking up the sun’s rays, I feel enlightened by nature encircling me as the breaking waves call out as they did yesterday as I first approached her kingdom. It’s request, “Come in and leave a bit of your legacy with us to share with shores around the world because like yours, our currents journey doesn’t end here. It carries on through every sunset and sees its way onward until the moon waves its goodbye to the new days light. Come join us for an exhilarating soulful awakening that will be shared by all who enter our purifying water. Your legacy will be bountiful to many.”
“But I am up riding high amongst the waves”
Welcoming that invitation eighteen hours earlier, I walked into its cool waters on a surfboard for the first time in 9 years. I delighted in it again today. However, I struggled. I wiped out. I was tossed and turned. Toppling over and thrown under the power of the waves, I never feared. Waiting patiently under the water as it rolled and spun me, I always reemerged. I wiped the sea from my eyes, inhaled, exhaled and hopped back on the board with a smile on my face. Frustrated with the fact that I suck at surfing? Sure. But cloaked in the realization that half a world away a life that wasn’t fulfilling my soul’s desire has been left behind. No longer a worry for me, I travel with freedom and passion.
Having now visited six countries since New Year’s Eve, the road less traveled has landed me here, in Arrafina, Portugal, surfing waves that have traveled further than I can even imagine. My journey has sometimes been lazy, sometimes stressed. However, thinking of the laughs and memories shared through new friendships created along the way, these experiences have carried me on this magical carpet ride and delivered me to exactly where God intends for me to be at this very moment. Wet, sore and exhausted? Yes (with a laugh). But at peace.
And peace is hard to find in this life.
As I recall the life I left behind and the memories I have created these past few weeks, the Pearl Jam lyrics playing continuously in my head are primarily from Release (Headline of article), Given To Fly (at top of post), Love Boat Captain, Present Tense, Amongst The Waves and Inside Job. Here are some of the lyrics that carry me through each day:
Love Boat Captian
“Sometimes life don’t leave you alone.”
Present Tense
“See the way that tree bends, does it inspire? Leaning out to catch the suns rays, a lesson to be applied. Are you getting something out of this all encompassing trip?”
Amongst The Waves
But I am up riding high amongst the waves
Where I can feel like I
Have a soul that has been saved
Where I can feel like I’ve
Put away my early grave”
Inside Job
“Holding on, the light of the night
On my knees to rise and fix my broken soul
Again.
Let me run into the rain
To be a human light again
Let me run into the rain
To shine a human light today
Oh, life comes from within your heart and desire”
I am 50 days into my life long dream of traveling the world, doing it on my schedule and my way. Doing my part to be a human light today, feeling that I put away my early grave by riding high amongst the waves (figuratively). If you wish to join me on this all encompassing trip and let your soul surf the shifting currents of experiences I travel upon, then I welcome you to come along for an epic ride. Sign up below to follow along with me.
Epicurious Traveler 
❤️
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Derek…you really should write a book. Your words transport me to places I can only imagine.
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Sue, thank you so much for your compliment! I’ll do my best to keep you floating with me along my journey. God bless you and tell the gang hello for me.
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Enjoyed this, keep doing your thing. Surfing is good for the soul, so is eddie vedder. Safe travels brother, hit me up if you get to SF.
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Will do brother! Thanks for the kind words.
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